I had somehow forgotten how beautiful upstate New York is. Even in the rain and fog. Mountains, trees, valleys and the New York Thruway cutting through it all. Just gorgeous.
It would have been that much more spectacular had it been sunny, but at least when we packed up the car Saturday morning, it was just misting out in Connecticut. After stopping for the required large cup of coffee, we were on the road by 10.
We arrived in the town of Howe Cave about 1:30. It wasn't raining anymore and the sun was breaking through the clouds.
Here's the view from the Cavern:
In a style that has become our tradition when traveling, we had not booked a place to stay. We like playing it loose and figure if nothing else, there would be a hotel somewhere close by, but we were really hoping to find a nice B&B.
When we had gotten off the exit for Howe Caverns, there was a sign announcing a B&B 3 miles down the road, so after checking out the Cavern and confirming our reservations for the Sat evening Lantern Tour, we headed to find a place to hang out hats hang our coats curl up and relax! Ah... the NY Times!
This was the main building of "The Gables".
And this is the building that our room was in:
That lovely 3-sided window on the 2nd floor was ours. It provided a lovely sitting area with lots of natural sunlight, we were to find out on Sunday morning!
The Innkeeper was a nice gentlemen who looked like the typical innkeeper... white hair and trim beard. He explained, when I asked if there were any vacancies, that there was only a room with 1 Queen sized bed. I smiled and said that that would be perfect. :)
The room was very cute. I wish I'd taken pictures before we lived in it, but these were taken on Sunday as were getting ready to pack up:
We really enjoyed staying there and the innkeeper recommended a lovely and unique place for dinner. Fairuz, was the name of the restaurant, which advertised itself as a Mediterranean, Italian and American place. Ok, then. We like diversity, but hoped for a bit more ethnic!
It was in a house, right off the main strip about 1/2 mile of our B&B. But because we'd be heading to the Cavern tour from dinner, we drove. It would be an early dinner, which would be suitable for making the tour on time, but also because we hadn't eaten anything since first getting on the road that morning!
We noticed that there were tables on the outside deck to the side of the house, but we opted to eat indoors. There was a room with a few tables off of the main entryway, with one of them set up with a laptop computer, which we came to find out, belonged to the owner, Alex. And there was a table for 2, set up in what used to be the large kitchen of the house, but had been divided into a sitting area with a fireplace (where the table for 2 was right in front of it, square in the middle of the room. The other end of the room had a counter dividing it from where we ended up sitting. I'm not sure what was on the other side, as I had my back to it.
Alex, invited us to sit down at this lone table and to look over the very informal paper menu. We noticed that we were the only patrons in the place. Not surprisingly, as it was only about 4:30 in the afternoon! We selected some Mediterranean breads and some hummus as appetizers. The hummus came with slices of pita, so we had hit the jackpot with carbs with the first course! The breads came with a plate of oils with various spices and olives in it, to dip the breads into. Wonderful.
For dinner, I ordered Shrimp kabobs (over rice) and Linda ordered chicken shwarma (over rice).
The food was definitely made to order and fresh. We know this as it took some time to reach our table! This would have been annoying under different circumstances, but Alex treated us like friends of the family. He was a smallish man in build and stature, probably in his early 40's and he had a thick accent that I couldn't quite place. So I asked him. "I'm from Egypt", he replied. Interesting, I thought. He then asked if we'd ever been there. I smiled (knowing that he had probably noticed my Star of David hanging around my neck), "No, but we've been to Israel a few times!"
He smiled and then began a wonderful conversation between the 3 of us for the next hour that we were there. Topics from politics (American), to food, to where he'd lived (Texas, New Mexico and now upstate NY) since moving here over 30 years ago. He explained how he was given a hard time from people who wanted good food, but wanted it fast. He said it was tough to make people understand that this type of food is not 'fast food' and unless you call ahead, he doesn't have the food just waiting to be bagged up for people to pick up!
He made us feel completely at home and it was the type of atmosphere where you almost felt like you should clear your plates and join him in the kitchen to help wash the dishes, as when you go to someone's home and they've made you a wonderful meal.
When we'd finished the delicious food, he asked if we'd like to have coffee or dessert. I replied that coffee would be nice and that we would be splitting the baklava that I'd seen advertised on the sign as we entered the place. He smiled, nodded and said, "Turkish coffee coming right up!", as he went towards the kitchen.
The Turkish coffee, which we had never had before, we served in those cute little cups that espresso is served in and he instructed us not to add or do anything but drink it. It was very strong, sweet tasting with a hint of cinnamon. Very good. But the highlight for us was that baklava. Oh.my.goodness. He cut it in half for us and again had specific instructions as to how to eat it. "No forks. Just pick it up in your fingers and eat." And eat we did. Layers of light pastry dough, with layers of finely chopped nuts, with syrup drizzled over it. Oh, it was divine. (next time, no sharing!)
We left there with a phone number of a bar that Alex would be at later if we had energy to go out and experience some night life and feeling like we had kind of made a new friend. Very nice. See how easy it is for Egyptians & Jews to get along???!!! If only. Someday.
We at last reached the point of the trip north. Howe Cavern. Lantern tour. There are tours given all day long at the Cavern that last about an hour and a half. But the Lantern tour is only on Friday and Saturday nights at 6:30 and lasts for 2 hours. It's the same exact tour that the other tours are, as far as what you see, but the difference is that when you reach the part where you take a little boat ride on the stream of water that is at the bottom portion of the cave, they cut the electrical lighting off and your group have individual 'lanterns' to light the cavern up, giving it a whole different look.
It's cold underground (about 5 stories below) - about 55 degrees, so I wore a sweatshirt and jeans and Linda wore jeans and a new fuzzy jacket that said Howe Cavern over her heart! She looked great and she was snuggly warm inside of it!
It was cool going thru the caves and seeing the work of nature in such an amazing way. You weren't allowed to touch anything except in certain places so as to not impede any natural processes within the walls around. Our guide was fun and our tour group was made up of 6 couples including us. (The only gay couple!) 2 of the couples were friends and relatively young, so at some points towards the end, they started acting a bit high schoolish, but despite that, it was a great experience.
When we got to the boat ride part and before they lit the 'lanterns' (metal pails turned sideways and the handles moved to the side that was upwards, with a candle stuck thru a whole in the bottom side), they cut off all the electric lights and it was so dark that you could not see your own hand in front of you, even it it was held a 1/2 inch from your own face. It was a little scary and I immediately grabbed onto Linda, but they turned on the lights again so we could light the candles.
The ride with only candle light showing the cave walls was a little eerie at first, but then between the shadowy images on the wall and the sound of the water, it was kind of mesmerizing and spiritual, in a way. Very peaceful.
When we turned around and returned to the 'dock', our guide told us that we could retrace our path back to the elevator at our own pace and he'd see us back there, but before we started back, he told us to all hold our lanterns up to look at this one wall that was behind us. We did as we were told and then realized that there was nothing to really see and that he just said that so he could make his getaway!
The way back was nice. We held hands and walked back in a strolling kind of way, with only one couple in front of us and the rest behind us. It was an incredible way to spend 2 hours, which passed by very fast.
We were given complimentary coffee, tea, hot chocolate or soda and a large chocolate chip cookies upon our return to the surface, to warm up. (My nose was freezing!) Then when we headed out to our car, we realized that it was raining out and it was pretty chilly.
We headed back to our cozy B&B and read for a bit before turning in.
Even with the blinds down, the sun was so bright Sunday morning, it woke us up about 8, but we didn't get up til 9. Very nice.
Downstairs, after a shower, I found local newspapers on the dining room table. Coffee was made in a pot next to a cute basket with homemade bran muffins. There was also a note to all the guests (by name) welcoming them and thanking them for staying with them and to enjoy the coffee and muffins and to have a nice day. Loved that and though the coffee was eh, the muffins were very tasty.
We packed up and headed out about 10.
Now, what I hadn't mentioned was that we had taken the CR-V and the bikes were loaded on the bike rack. We had read that there were bike trails around the cavern that had several routes of assorted distances. But after seeing the local terrain and the busy roads that these routes were on, we decided to head south to New Paltz (where I lived between the ages 7-12 in the years of '65-''70) where there were local state parks to ride around in with spectacular views. So off we went.
We jumped on the New York thruway and had driven about 1/2 hour when we passed a honda fit with a cute little bike rack on top of it. I had been checking our bikes periodically in the rear view mirror all along, but when I looked back at that moment, my heart stopped. It looked like Linda's bike was almost off the rack! Very calmly I said, "uh oh." and started slowing down and pulled off onto the shoulder. (I was very glad that there was a huge shoulder and that there was very little traffic).
We got out to inspect the situation and saw that if the bikes had not been locked up to the bike rack, her bike would surely have gone flying off onto the road, into another car, something. What we figured happened is that my bike was on the inside and being slightly bigger, the handle bars had been turning with the vibrations of the road, and that in turn was pushing Linda's bike towards to the end of the rack. Also contributing was that with all the rain, the straps holding onto the bike must have loosened up with all the moisture and the bike just popped out of one side and then pushed off and away.
I'm just thankful that we noticed early enough before losing a bike or worse, causing an accident! Can you imagine driving along and seeing a bike flying towards you?! YIKES!
We got things put together enough to get us to the next exit where we found a gas station where we got some gas, filled the bike tires, switched the bike positions so the my 'bully' bike would be on the outside and wound the bike lock around a few times to keep things very secure so that all the highway bumping around wouldn't loosen them up.
We arrived in New Paltz about 1 and decided to eat at our favorite Thai place "Lemon Grass", where we had some salad, and some shrimp appetizers along with shrimp spring rolls.
Then we headed up the mountain. We took a wrong turn and found that the good bike trails were at Minnewaska State park. We arrived there about 3 and were on our bikes by 3:20. The parking lot was at the top overlooking Lake Minnewaska. There were many walking and biking trails that circled the lake and/or went throughout the entire State park. We opted to try and go around the lake and headed off.
At first, it was kind of scary, as it was very rocky and the trails were steep in some places (going up) and then steep heading downwards, with a little mud thrown in at times just to make you really pay attention, but it was great. We stopped every so often to take pictures or just enjoy the spectacular views, but all in all we were out and about for 2 hours and we covered about 7 1/2 miles. But at times, my heart rate was higher than it's ever been when I've been on the treadmill, but between the lovely breeze and shady trails, it was more than pleasant experience.
Here are some of our favorite moments:
We stopped in town in New Paltz to grab a slice of pizza and then got on the road home about 6, figuring we'd be home by 8.
Not sure what happened, but we missed the exit off the NY Thruway for I-84 into CT and ended up on the Tappan Zee bridge to 287 to the Hutch. Added another hour to our trip, but we were still home by 9.
Tired, but extremely happy to have had 2 great days together - full of adventure and fun.
